Not sure why I look short and square but this is me crossing the Port de Saint Jacque herer in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port earlier this afternoon. It looks like this is as far as I will be walking. I called Le Puy this morning and got the sad news that there is still too much snow in that area for the walking to be safe. The lady said that some young people are doing it but I don't think I fit in that catagory. Not sure what I will do with the next 11 days before I got to Paris, but stay tuned and I will let you know.
I stayed in a wonderful Gite in Ostabat last night it is run by a retired Basque couple and from the time I arrived I had the feeling that I knew the man. At one point during dinner he looked at me and said are you singing, I guess I must have been humming which I have a tendenancy to do. I said no anf believe me you don't want lme to sing. At that point the last piece of the puzzle fell into place; I said I don't sing but you do don't you and you are on youtube singing Ultreia, he smiled and said yest that is me. It is one of my favorite youtube videos; have a look
He agreed to sing for me so I ran to my room and got my flip camcorder:
Crossing the Port de Saint Jacques
Wednesday, March 31, 2010
Me at the Port de Saint Jacques
Monday, March 29, 2010
Aroue March 29, 2010
This first one was taken over a week ago:
For the last few days I have been enjoying great views of the snow covered Pyrenees Mountains and I just can't stop taking pictures of them.
The countryside is so beautiful this time of year. I'm walking in the Basque country now which is Donkey country I love them and have been feeding them butter cookies with dark chocolate on top and they really seem to like them. I'm starting to see more sheep too I hope I'm able to find some of the Basque sheeps milk cheese soon.
Today's walk was very nice not too many hills to climb and most of the morning was in the forest which I really enjoyed, so many wild flowers and lots of birds an other animals. I see deer almost everyday at least one and a week or so ago on a foggy morning I saw a small herd of 10 to 12 running in a meadow. I have wanted to see wild Boar ever since I worked on a farm in Tuscany, there were lots of them there and I could hear them in the forest but I never did see one. Well my wish came true last week I didn't get a photo because it saw me first but I did get to see and hear it as it ran away down a row of vines in a vineyard.
I'm getting close to the end of this first part of my walk. As of today I have walked 489 KM since leaving Conques on February 27th and I have 44 KM more to go before I reach Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port. Once there I will check the snow conditions back on the L'Aubrec and if the conditions are good I hope to take a train to Le Puy and walk the section from there to Conques which I couldn't do earlier due to the snow conditions.The weather is so nice and waqrm down here I sure hope they are getting this up in Le Puy too. Speaking of weather I get the forecast from back home emailed to me every morning and I can't beleave the winter that I've missed. I'm not sure that you have had any snow since I left but you sure havent had much, can't wait to get back and get in the garden before the black flies arrive.
This little clip was taken in the forest this morning:
This is where I stopped for my Picnic today. Very nice people even let me look inside the Pate factory and the lady gave me a can of Pate, I didn't have the heart to tell her I don't eat meat.
Hope you can see the last two videos this computer is slower then death and youtube hadn't finished playing with them when I posted them.
Monday, March 22, 2010
At last a goat
One thing I have wished that I would see more of is the goats but so far not too many and I will be in the Basque country soon where it is all dairy sheep. I will be glad to see that too because they make a sheeps milk cxheese there that I love.
I have had a problem finding a computer lately that will let me upload photos but where I'm staying tonight I'm using a little netbook like the one I have back home. So if you check the flickr account there are 40 new photos, lots of flowers because I'm finding more everyday. I'm also asking for the help of my European friends to identify some of them for me.
Today was a beautiful day after the rain of yesterday and this afternoon I was passed by this very nice mode of transportation, I think I need one.
and from behind
Tonight I'm on a small farm/gite with two pet goats who of course are eating all the wrong plants, like the prized new palm tree. The couple who run the giet are from Belgium and are very involved in water conservation so I have had my first expereince with a composting toilet and I must say I have been pleasantly surprised.
It is in the bathroom attached to my room and is completely odor free in case you don't know how they work, like I didn4t a few hours ago, it is a veey simple process you take wood shavings from the compartment on the back and cover whatever you deposit in the toilet. When that container is full it is removed and added to the compost outside. Very simple clean and odor free and no wasted water.
I have a short day planned for tomorrow only 11 or 12 KM to Aire-sur-l'Adour which will only leave 152 KM to Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port so hopefully I will have time to go to Le Puy and walk from there to Conques before I go to Paris on April 12th.
Wednesday, March 17, 2010
La Romieu
There are cats everywhere here so I had to do some research to find out why.
"Angeline and the Legend of the Cats
In the year of our Lord 1338, in a Gascon village called LA ROMIEU, renowned for its beautiful collegiate built 20 years previously, Vincent and Mariette lived contentedly. He was a woodman and his wife often accompanied him into the forest to make up bundles of faggots. They worked hard, and with their poultry and pig, their fruit and vegetable garden, their table was always laid full with food.
They had been married for 3 years when Mariette gave birth to alittle girl, whom they called Angeline. Alas, one day Vincent was crushed by a tree he was felling. Inconsolable, Mariette sank into a depression and 2 months later was found dead, holding little Angeline in her arms. The little girl was taken in by a neighbour and was brought up with their children like one of their own.
Angeline showed a great affection for cats and their were always one or two around her which at night even slept in her bed. She also often shared her bowl with them. With the passing of time, Angeline became a healthy young girl who helped her adoptive parents in fields, always accompanied by her cats.
In 1342 and the 2 years that followed, the winters were harsh and the spring and summer so wet that it was impossible to sow their crops. There followed a great famine and inspite of the distribution of the collegiate reserves by the lord Arnaud d'Aux, the inhabitants soon had nothing to eat. They thought of the numerous cats in the village and set about catching them. Angeline's parents, knowing how much she loved hers, allowed her to keep a male and female cat on the condition she hid them well, as the neighbours would gladly kill them. Angeline, therefore, shut her two cats in the attic by day and at nignt she let them out to hunt. But the famine grew worse and many villagers died. Angeline and her parents barely subsisted by collecting roots in the woods and sometimes they found mushrooms but it was hardly sufficient. Weakened by hunger, they managed somehow to survive this terrible period and more clement times finally arrived, allowing them to harvest what they needed to live.
But in LA ROMIEU where the cats had disappeared, the rats proliferated to a point where the crops were once again threatened. Angeline, with infinite caution, had been able to hide her cats in the attic and they had produced several progeny. There were now about 20 of these cats. The villagers wrung their hands over the damage caused by the rats. Angeline announced that she was going to release some 20 cats which the inhabitants would be able to adopt. The rats rapidly disappeared and it is thus that Angeline ressembled more and more, with the passing of time, that of one of the cats and that her ears transformed into the ears of a cat."
I can't upload my own photos here but I have borrowed this one.
Today was a 19 KM walk in the very warm sunshine and tonight I'm staying at a private Gite Le Couvent de La Romieu, an old converted convent. Beautifully done, I'm cooking for myself tonight and I even have company, a couple just arrived that I met on the trail yesterday.
March 22 I'm finally able to upload my cat photos
Click the photos to see more on Flickr.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Sunset on the Nuke Plants
My room in Auvillar was about 1 KM from these and they were in view for almost 2 days of walking. I hope that was just steam. Look how close some of the houses are I'll bet that is cheap real estate.
March 14/2010 Moissac to Auvillar : A 20 KM walk13 KM of which was along the Canal du Midi so nice and flat and easy walking except they paved the tow path which is hard on the feet.
I was surprised to be walking along the Canal again.
When I arrived in Auvillar I was surprised to see large bike races with lots of people out watching them, just like the Tour de France.
Auvillar has a beautiful restored medieval round covered market.
March 15/2010
Auvillar to Castet Arrouy 22 KM A beautiful sunny and warm day, no jacket required.
I stayed at the Chambre et table d'hotes run by Marie-Ange a pilgrim herself. Very clean and comfortable and the food was excellent. Marie-Ange was concerned that I might have a problem with reservations for the next day and she was right, she made several phone calls for me and the choice was to walk almost 30 KM to La Romieu or take a short day and stop in Lectoure for the night only 10 KM away, I opted for the short day and on the 16th. I stayed at Gite Le Clos at Lectoure also a very nice accommodation run by a very nice couple who have also walked the Chemin.
Saturday, March 13, 2010
Moissac
We arrived in Moissac yesterday and I decided it would be a good spot to take a rest and stay for two nights.
Pru caught the train back to Paris this afternoon, she had only planned to walk as far as Moissac. It was great having her to walk with and now I will have to adjust to doing everthing by myself. Pru is a great planner and organizer and she loves to read maps all of which is a great help when you are walking. So from now on I will need to be extra careful that I don't miss a turn on le chemin. I hope to meet up with Pru in Paris in mid April and go for a walk with her walking group.
The last couple of days have been beautiful and sunny and it seems to be warming up.
We stayed at the Gite Saint Martin night before last, in Saint Martin and here at Moissac we are staying at Ultreia, both places are very special and run by very special people so if any of you who are planning to walk le voie du Puy and you stop in either of these towns I would highly reccommend them.
Of course the beautiful Abbey and cloister are well worth the visit.
Wednesday, March 10, 2010
Cahors the Devil and the Snow.
The fortified Bridge at Cahors has a legend that goes with it something about the builder doing a deal with the devil :
"It took seven decades in the 1300s to build Valentré bridge. Legend has it that the builder made a pact with the devil to help in the completion of the bridge.
At the end of the work, the builder tried to go back on the pact by refusing to place the last stone onto the bridge. In the 1800s, during a restoration of the bridge, a carving of a devil was added to the top of one of the three towers. "
It was snowing lightly as we crossed the bridge but I managed to get a shot of the devil.
Today has been mostly cloudy and quite cold so we were supprised to come across Almond Trees in bloom. They are usually the earliest of the fruit or nut trees to bloom.
Yesterday we walked past the little roadside chapel of Saint Jean Le Froid the door was open so we went in for a look and I'm glad we did the windows were very special.
For some reason Pru took a few photos of some old Pilgrim.
A few video clips that I took today:
Tuesday, March 9, 2010
Pont Valentré. Cahors
I have great photos of this birdge that are my own but this computer won't let me upload them. Anyway we stayed at a little hotel in Cahors and when we got up yesterday morning it started to snow. Just enough to turn the ground white but it was cold and we had some concern about it making slopes slippery . The usual way out of Cahors is straight up a cliff face using steps that have been carved into the cliff. We chose to take a longer route out of town for safety sake which added a bit to the distance for the day.
As it turned out we opted for a short day, too cold and damp so we stopped at Hospitalet where we stayed at the Chambre et table d'hotes Les Tuileries very nice and comfortable and we had a good dinner and breakfast with the family.
Today we walked 20 KM on to Montcuq, for the non French speakers that translates to "My Ass", needless to say I had to buy postcards. We are staying in the Gite d'etape Le Souleillou which is nice and clean and comfortable and we are doing our own cooking for a change. Very interesting town with two old stone towers, we plan to do some looking around before we move on ion the morning.
Saturday, March 6, 2010
Wonderful Chambre d'Hotes Atelier des Volets Bleus at Grealou
Wonderful Chambre d'Hotes Atelier des Volets Bleus at Grealou, originally uploaded by Campobello Island.
Excuse the spelling, I'm using a french keyboard and no English spellcheck in this computer.
I just wanted to take a few minutes to give you a few brief highlights of the walk so far and for the benifit of my friends who are making plans to walk La Voiue du Puy this fall I will give some comments on the trail and our lodgings.
February 27, 2010: We stayed at the Abbaye Sainte Foy at Conques, which is an excellent facility very clean and modern even though it is in the 11th. century building. Good evening meal and good breakfast.
February 28, 2010 We started our walk from Conques to Decazeville a distance of 19.5 KM. A good first day of walking, mostly sunny with one brief shower in the afternoon. Tonight we stayed at a small hotel because the Gites in the area were not open for the season yet. Had an excellent meal at a little Chinese restaurant. This is where I had to take my extra walk to pick up my man Purse.
March 1,2010 Decazeville to Chaunac a distance of around 10 KM a short day because the next avaliable Gite would have made the walk over 30 KM, so many of the gites are not yet open for the season. We stayed at Gite Les Mont de Chaunac which wasn't really ready to open for the year but the lady let us stay. No hot water for showers in the evening but there was lots in the morning. We cooked our own evening meal in the kitchen and it was the best I've had so far , Pasta, broccollie in a creme fresh sauce with lots of smoked wild Pacific Salmon. Even had leftovers for breakfast.
March 2,2010 Chaunac to Figeac a distance of 20.5 KM. A beautiful day sunny and warm all day by 10 AM I had removed my jacket and was walking in a short sleeve t-shirt. We stopped mid-day at an Auberge-Bar-Restaurant and had a five course meal with wine for 12 Euros each. It was wonderful but I ate too much and could hardly move that afternoon. We stayed at Gite le Soleilho, to be avoided. The Gite was nice enough but the man is nuts. Evidently he had bed bug problems last year and is running the place like a concentration camp now. He had a long list of orders for us including garbage bags for us to put our backpacks in and not to remove them.
March 3,2010 Figeac to Grealou 20.5 KM and a fair amount of rain today but not too bad it was gentle without any wind. We stayed at the wonderful Chambre d'Hotes pictured at the top of this post. We had the whole house to ourselves and a Jotul wood stove to keep the house warm. we paid 10 Euros extra for food to cook for the evening meal and the lady left enough to feed a party. A wonderful old stone house a must stay place for any of you coming this way.
March 4,2010 Grealou to Cajarc another short day but we did stop for another wonderful lunch a bit more expensive and not quite as good but very nice all the same. We stayed at Chambre d'Hotes L'Atelier very nice, clean and comfortable. Neither one of us felt like a big dinner but we had a good breakfast with the family before we left in the morning.
March 5,2010 Cajarc to Limogne 18 KM and another beautiful sunny day. We stayed at the municipal Gite nothing special but clean and comfortable and only 10 Euros each.
March 6,2010 Limogne to Mas de Vert 21.5 KM and a lovely day. We are staying at Gite Poudally which is run by a very nice young couple and has a wonderful atmosphere, great food and laundry facilities. Need I say more.
Friday, March 5, 2010
Conques from the South
March 5th. much to tell . We have been walking six days now and covered a little over 100 KM . The whole saga begins with me leaving my "Man Purse" on a train at the last stop before Conques and I didn't realize it until a half hour later: A small station only one employee who call the train they find the bag and will return it to the station on a later train that evening. We take a taxi to Conques about a half hour away and the taxi is due to return to the little station in the morning to pick up passengers from the Paris train. Problem number two in the morning all trains from the north of France are cancelled due to the mqjor storm on the coast that killed 50 people. The nice people at SNCF,French Rail, agree to forward the bag to the next town on out walking route. Once we arrive there are no taxis available to take me the extra 4 KM to the station so I add an extra 8 KM round trip to pick up the bag. Everything still in the bag including my Passport and two cameras.
We are in Limogne tonight and this little cafe is going to close soon so I need to be brief. The photo of Conques is borrowed, I didn't have a camera at the time. I will add some photos here and if you click on them it will take you to the others that I have just put on Flickr.
